The Spice Island | Why Grenada is a Great Destination for Food Lovers

Put your hand up if your mental image of the Caribbean is a collection of beautiful beach destinations? Keep it up if you’ve ever flicked through a travel brochure or website full of gorgeous hotels along pristine beaches lined with swaying palm trees, and tourmaline waters. Stunning, no?

But beaches don’t keep me occupied for more than a few hours before I’m bored. My sister can relax on a beautiful beach for days on end, but me, I start itching to do something else; I need to explore, see the sights and discover the local food.

My recent visit to Grenada has shown me a whole different side to the Caribbean from the familiar beach paradise.

Known as the Spice Island, this quiet and friendly gem of the West Indies has far more to offer, especially to those of us who love chocolate, spices and tropical fruit, lush green rain forests full of native wildlife, and some of the most welcoming people in the world. Don’t worry, there are lovely beaches to be found here too, just so you know!

Invited to visit during Grenada’s annual Chocolate Festival in June, I immediately started to make a list of all the things I wanted to see and do the island, many of which I was able to experience during my trip.

Read on to discover the best Grenada attractions for food lovers.

Contents

Chocolate
Cocoa Farms & Chocolate Makers | Visiting Chocolate Estates | House of Chocolate Shop | The Grenada Chocolate Festival
Nutmeg, Mace & Other Spices
Grenada-grown Spice | Hot Sauce | Nut-Med
Markets
St George’s Market | Grand Anse Craft & Spice Market
Grenada Food & Drink
Local Grenada Dishes | Fish Fridays and Weekly BBQs | Rum, Beer & Chocolate Liqueur

St George, Grenada in the Caribbean

Chocolate

Cocoa Farms & Chocolate Makers

Grenada has been growing cocoa since French colonists introduced the crop in the early 1700s, and has long been known for the exceptional quality of its cocoa. Traditionally, the beans, once harvested and processed, were sold for export to chocolate producers around the world.

In 1999, the Grenada Chocolate Company, founded by Mott Green, created a chocolate factory in Grenada itself, creating the first tree to bar chocolate company. From the start, there was a focus on fair trade for the cocoa farmers, sustainability in the entire process, and high quality chocolate.

In the last two decades, four more tree to bar producers have followed the example of The Grenada Chocolate Company: Belmont Estate Chocolate, Crayfish Bay Organic Estate, Jouvay Chocolate and Tri Island Chocolate.

All five of these companies produce excellent chocolate from cocoa grown on the island.

Learning about cocoa farming at Belmont Estate, Grenada


Cocoa pod opened to show fruit

Cocoa farming and processing at Crayfish Bay in Grenada

Visiting Chocolate Estates

A visit to one or more of the chocolate producers in Grenada is an absolute must-do, whether you’re in Grenada for a few days or a few weeks.

My first stop was Belmont Estate, a beautiful historical plantation estate that farms and processes cocoa, makes its own chocolate, and runs a lovely restaurant where those taking the full tour can sit back and enjoy a delicious meal, appreciating the view from the open air dining room.

Chocolate Popcorn, Belmont Estate, Grenada

Chocolate Menu at Belmont Estate, Grenada
A visit here really helps you understand both the history of the place itself, and the full chocolate-making process from tree to bar.

Learning about cocoa farming at Belmont Estate, Grenada

Processing Cocoa at Belmont Estate, Grenada

Cocoa Pods at Belmont Estate, Grenada

Learning about chocolate production at Belmont Estate, Grenada
Crayfish Bay is a very different kind of place, a far more homespun affair that really showcases the ingenuity, determination and dedication of founders Kim and Lylette Russell. Learning how Kim designed and built his own charcoal bean roaster, and hearing his thoughts on the exploitative nature of the big name chocolate brands is eye-opening. Lylette looks after the chocolate production, and there is a team dedicated to growing and harvesting the cocoa.

Cocoa farming and processing at Crayfish Bay in Grenada

Crayfish Bay Organic Estate in Grenada

Kim roasting cocoa beans at Crayfish Bay in Grenada

Crayfish Bay Organic Estate in Grenada
Lunch here is taken in a charming traditional wooden house, on the open-air veranda which offers wonderful views over the plantation and across to the sea.

Relaxing at Crayfish Bay Organic Estate in Grenada

Lunch at Crayfish Bay Organic Estate in Grenada

House of Chocolate Shop

Founded and run by Magdalena Fielden, this is a one stop shop for the very best of Grenada chocolate. As well as the full range of chocolate bars from each of the island’s producers, the House of Chocolate in St George also sells locally made spices, jams, spirits and liqueurs, and a selection of non-food items made on the island such as crafts, clothing, jewellery and beauty products. There’s also a small cafe offering cakes, drinks and ice cream.

As well as filling your basket with chocolate, look out for guava jelly, nutmeg syrup, cocoa tea balls (used to make the ubiquitous Grenadian cocoa tea), and coffee.

House of Chocolate, St George, Grenada

Shopping in House of Chocolate, St George, Grenada

The Grenada Chocolate Festival

Founded in 2014 by Magdalena Fielden, the annual Grenada Chocolate Festival is a week long celebration of Grenadian chocolate, and of the island itself.

Magdalena Fielden, founder of the Grenada Chocolate Festival

Learning about chocolate at Grenada Chocolate Festival
Based at True Blue Bay Resort (the hotel owned and run by Magdalena and her husband Russ), the festival lays on a packed schedule including visits to cocoa farms and producers, and lots of interactive activities.

True Blue Bay Resort, Grenada

Bedroom in True Blue Bay Resort, Grenada

Sunset Swimming Pool at True Blue Bay Resort in Grenada


From making chocolate in the original Mexican way on traditional metate (mesoamerican stone grinders), to a yoga session incorporating mindful chocolate tasting, to a rum and chocolate pairing, to cookery lessons (where all the recipes feature chocolate), to painting colourful postcards as a way to express flavours of chocolate, to making a chocolate face scrub, visitors are immersed in Grenadian cocoa in all its forms. The festival also organises trips to visit the chocolate producers on the island, always a highlight for attendees.

Making chocolate the traditional Mexican way at Grenada Chocolate Festival

Making chocolate the traditional Mexican way at Grenada Chocolate Festival

Tasting by Colour, at the Grenada Chocolate Festival

Tasting by Colour, at the Grenada Chocolate Festival

Grenada Rum and Chocolate Pairing at the Grenada Chocolate Festival

Cooking lessons at Grenada Chocolate Festival
There are also opportunities to experience more of the island, from an evening of live music, food and beer at the West Indies Brewery, to a sunset sailing trip, with chocolate tasting on board of course!

Nutmeg, Mace & Other Spices

Grenada-grown Spice

Grenada is a major producer and exporter of nutmeg, mace and other spices such as cinnamon, cloves, ginger and turmeric. Of these, the largest crop is nutmeg, the seed of the Myristica fragrans tree. The seed covering, a reddish webbing between the seed and fruit, is mace, sold either dried as is, or ground.

Gouyave Nutmeg Factory, Grenada

Nutmeg removed from the fruit
Markets and shops all over Grenada sell a wide range of locally-grown spices, at excellent prices compared to their cost in a UK supermarket.

If you have time, it’s worth visiting the nutmeg processing factory, located in Gouyave.

Spices and hot sauces on sale at Market Square, St George, Grenada

Hot Sauce

Combining locally grown chillies with spices, Grenadians love hot sauce, and you can buy a wide range of different types in small or large bottles to take home.

Nut-Med

I rarely talk about medical products on Kavey Eats, but I was wholly persuaded by Nut-Med, a Grenada pain relief product a little like Deep Heat or Tiger Balm. Available in spray and cream forms, I’m a total convert, after experiencing first hand its effect on a painful knee that had been troubling me for weeks.

Markets

I’m an absolute sucker for a food market, and when left to my own devices I can easily spend an entire day. Between learning about foods I’ve not encountered before, chatting to vendors and taking photos, the time just disappears.

I also love browsing craft markets that sell locally made art – one of the loveliest souvenirs of a place to bring home.

St George’s Market Square

Located in the heart of bustling St George, Market Square is packed full of vendors selling fruit, vegetables, and spices plus a wide range of other food and drink.

There are fruits I’ve never seen before, such as the sapodilla, native to Central America and the Caribbean; on spotting a pile of these unfamiliar fruits I asked the vendor what they were, and he generously gave me one to try – they were so sweet and delicious! I was also intrigued by soursop and cashew fruits. You’ll also find plenty of more familiar tropical fruits, all of which thrive on the island.

Fruits at at Market Square, St George, Grenada
Spices are sold whole or ground, and even strung into pretty garlands that you can hang in your home for the wonderful aromas. Many of the stalls sell a range of much-loved Grenadian hot sauces. We bought ours from Betty and Aunt Rubes, inside the market building, who were really friendly and happy to talk us through their goods.

Also available are a small selection of handmade local crafts, such as batik, woven baskets and painted calabash bowls, as well as toiletries and beauty products featuring local ingredients.

Betty, a vendor at Market Square, St George, Grenada

Grand Anse Craft & Spice Market

In times gone by, art and craft vendors used to sell their wares directly on the beach but now they are based in the purpose built craft and spice market. The entrance is by the Grand Anse Catholic Church.

This market has a much wider selection of craft goods including jewellery, leatherwork, paintings, clothing, and more. You will also find plenty of food and drink (to enjoy on site or takeaway), plus spices, fruit and vegetables, and even some fun tourist activities such as hair braiding.

Grenada Food & Drink

I’ve already mentioned the locally grown spices, which feature regularly in local cuisine, and the wonderful fresh tropical fruit. Look out for the bright yellow watermelon, which I enjoyed every day for breakfast at True Blue Bay Resort; it’s just like the regular red version but yellow instead.

Local Grenada Dishes

There are several local dishes that are well worth seeking out.

Callaloo is a vegetable dish made from popular across much of the Caribbean. In Grenada and much of the West Indies, it’s made from the leaves of the taro bush, known locally as dasheen, which is often found growing along the roadsides, and most commonly enjoyed as a thick, pureed soup.

Callaloo in Grenada

Curried Goat at BB's Crabback in St George, Grenada
Curried goat and roti was first introduced by the Indians who came to Grenada in the late 19th century as indentured workers, and is a hugely popular dish today. For me, it’s a taste of my roots too, as the flavours are much like my mum’s North Indian-style lamb or mutton curry.

The rotis are popularly used as wrappers for food on the go, too. Filled with curried vegetables or meat, they’re available all over the island.

Oil down is considered the national dish, a hearty stew of salted fish, chicken or meat with vegetables such as breadfruit, sweet potato and dasheen, cooked in coconut milk, herbs and spices, including turmeric which gives the dish it’s rich yellow colour. Many versions have dumplings added too. The sheen of the oil as it releases from the coconut milk is what gives oil down its unusual name.

Fried bake and saltfish souse is often enjoyed for breakfast. The slightly sweet baked or fried dough cakes are served with a dollop of salted fish that’s been soaked and then fried with tomato, onion, carrots, peppers and spices.

Fried bake and saltfish souse at True Blue Bay Resort in Grenada

Crab back at BB's Crabback in St George, Grenada
Crab back is definitely one of my favourites when it comes to Grenadian cuisine. Fresh crab meat is cooked with spices and cream, and served in the crab’s back or shell. BB’s Crabback restaurant in St George is a great place to enjoy crabback, goat curry and other classic Grenadian dishes.

For those with a sweeter tooth, lookout for Grenadian spice cake – a light sponge flavoured with local spices, guava cheese – where guava and sugar are cooked together until they form a thick, paste that’s usually allowed to firm up before being cut into pieces and coated in sugar, sweet potato pudding – in which the sweet potato is cooked with sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg and ginger, coconut milk, flour and butter to create a thick, stodgy cake, and tamarind balls – round sweet and sour balls made from the pulp of tamarind fruit mixed with sugar.

Making Cocoa Tea at the Grenada Chocolate Festiva

Lunch at Crayfish Bay Organic Estate in Grenada
There are quite a few drinks that I’ve not found elsewhere, including several thirst quenchers made with local fruit. But the one you’ll find everywhere is cocoa tea, made with local chocolate, cinnamon and herbs in boiling water.

Fish Fridays and Weekly BBQs

A popular Grenada tradition is Fish Friday, also called Fish Fry Friday. A nation of fish lovers, Friday evenings are when everyone gets together to enjoy the day’s catch of fresh fish and seafood, grilled or fried. The most famous Fish Friday that visitors can attend is held in Gouyave, on the north west coast, but you can find places offering Fish Friday along Grand Anse Beach too.

Grenadians also love their barbecued meat, and you’ll readily find a BBQ event running somewhere near you most weekends. Just ask your hotel or bed and breakfast hosts to point you in the right direction!

Rum, Beer & Chocolate Liqueur

As it only fitting for a Caribbean island, Grenada produces some excellent rum to be enjoyed neat or in one of a long list of delicious cocktails. There are three rum distilleries, Clarke’s Court (aka Grenada Distillers) in St George, River Antoine in the north, and Westerhall on the South West coast. All three distilleries welcome visitors; Clarke’s Court have a hospitality centre, but call first to check when it’s open. Westerhall and River Antoine both offer guided tours.

Grenada Rum

Beer is popular, with many brands available, but do make time to visit the West Indies Beer Company, near the southern tip of the island. As well as a long bar where you can enjoy all their varied beers, they often put on live music and food in the evenings. It’s a great party spot.

West Indies Beer Company in St George, Grenada

West Indies Beer Company in St George, Grenada
A favourite Grenadian tipple of mine is Amaz-In, a chocolate cream liqueur launched by Grenada Distiller’s a couple of years ago. Made with Grenadian chocolate and rum, this is glorious served chilled neat or over ice and it’s fantastic in cocktails too.

Charlie's Bar, St George, Grenada

Charlie's Bar, St George, Grenada

Charlie's Bar, St George, Grenada
The bars in Grenada are very welcoming, so do find time to pop into some of the colourful ones you’ll encounter on your journey around the island. Check out Charlie’s Bar in St George’s; decorated with lost of colour and quotes painted onto the walls by Charlie and his friends, it also boasts an incredible wall made of painted tyres just opposite, that’s fast become one of the island’s most instagrammed spots. Esther’s bar on Grand Anse Beach is a favourite for delicious cocktails featuring local spirits and ingredients.

What Else Does Grenada Have To Offer?

The country encompasses the main island of Grenada plus a number of smaller islands to its north including Carriacou and Petite Martinique. The main island is home to many of Grenada’s attractions but it’s also well worth visiting the smaller islands for a different vibe.

St George Harbour, Grenada

Sunset Swimming Pool at Silversands Hotel in Grenada

Colourful island houses, Grenada

Rainforest interior of Grenada
There are several beautiful beaches including the long wide bay of Grand Anse, as well as Levera, Morne Rouge, La Sagesse, and Anse La Roche over on Carriacou.

History buffs will appreciate historical attractions such as Fort Frederick, Fort George and Fort Matthew, and the historical estates such as Belmont and Westerhall.

For those who like exploring urban spaces, St George is a must-visit for its pretty harbour and carinage, and the many colourful streets and houses. It’s also the best place to find a large selection of delicious bars, cafes and restaurants.

Gouyave, a much smaller fishing village to the north is a riot of brightly coloured homes and businesses.

Nature lovers are well catered for. The lush rainforests and lake of Grand Etang National Park & Forest Reserve, are utterly beautiful as is Levera National Park, where you can visit the turtle hatchery. If you are in Grenada at the right time of year, you may also be able to take a tour to see wild turtles laying their eggs in the sand, or the baby turtles hatching out and racing to the sea. The island has many beautiful waterfalls to chase too.

Carriacou has its own set of attractions including unspoilt mangroves, excellent snorkelling and the striking Underwater Sculpture Park in Molinere Beauséjour Marine Area.

Cocoa Pods, just harvested from the tree, Grenada

Kavey Eats visited Grenada for the Grenada Chocolate Festival courtesy of the Grenada Tourism Authority. Our own images are labelled for kaveyeats.com; additional images courtesy of Grenada Chocolate Festival and

Please leave a comment - I love hearing from you!
23 Comments to "The Spice Island | Why Grenada is a Great Destination for Food Lovers"

  1. kaveyeats

    Thanks Heidi, was wonderful to finally discover why the island has captured your heart!

    Reply
  2. Grace

    What an amazing article, fully captured my Homeland! I am home sick! Well done

    Reply
    kaveyeats

    I’m honoured to bring a little homesickness and memories of home to you, Grace!

    Reply
  3. kaveyeats

    Yes I think you are right, I’m sure I saw some Grenada coffee. I must look into that next time, I’d love to visit coffee producer too!

    Reply
  4. Emily

    Grenada just got added to my travel bucket list. I didn’t know about Grenada’s wealth of chocolate related activities. I’m not sure whether I’d go to the Belmont Estate or the chocolate shop first! The chocolate festival sounds like a blast as well. Chocolate and beach, does it get any better?

    Reply
    kaveyeats

    It’s a beautiful island for chocolate lovers, and indeed all food lovers!

    Reply
  5. Clarice

    I have never considered a trip to Grenada but after reading your post, I am excited and keen to visit. I would love to see the Chocolate Estates and Cocoa Farms. As a chocolate lover, it would be such a treat to experience this. The Chocolate festival seems so exciting.

    Reply
    kaveyeats

    It’s a wonderful island for chocolate lovers, and also has so much more!

    Reply
  6. Ambica Gulati

    I never ever researched on Grenada. But your pictures are so amazing that I need to read a lot more about this island. I would like to meet Kim, eat Fried bake and saltfish souse and the yellow watermelon. And eat chocolates and get some Nut-med for my knees too.

    Reply
    kaveyeats

    Kim is such a character, really fun and inspirational at the same time!

    Reply
  7. Magdalena Fielden

    Dear Kavita, was a pleasure meeting you and having you participate at some of our Grenada Chocolate Fest activities. We have now announced the dates for 2020, from May 1st to the 6th. But of course the farms, factories and House of Chocolate are open year around.
    For more info visit http://www.grenadachocolatefest.com
    Thank you for a lovely write up and we hope to see you back to Grenada in the near future.

    Reply
    kaveyeats

    Magdalena it was wonderful to participate, thanks so much for having me!

    Reply
  8. Bhushavali N

    Hahaha. I’m more like your sister. I could live for days together at a beach! How I miss beaches now!
    That said, I’m a big time lover of chocolates (obviously dark chocolate!). I’ve been to a couple of chocolate museums in Belgium. All Belgian chocolates have their cocoa coming in from Caribbean. I’m fascinated to read the first hand account of Caribbean cocoa itself!
    OMG! While I’ve seen pictures of cocoa fruit, I never realized its that big! I thought is the size of almond fruit!!!! Whoa!!!!

    Reply
    kaveyeats

    You would like the beaches of Grenada too, in that case! And yes, the cocoa pod contains many seeds (what become cocoa beans once the fruit ferments away and the seeds are dried and roasted), so it’s quite large!

    Reply
  9. Shreya Saha

    Starting from the cocoa farming to the chocolate making, to the fresh fruit market, to the drinks – Grenada has it all. I would love to take part in the chocolate making process. Thanks for giving details about the method.

    Reply
  10. Sandy N Vyjay

    You are right, when you think about the Caribbean,it is always gorgeous beaches, music and dance one associates with the Caribbean spirit. But Grenada is definitely a different perspective. And it is chocolate all the way. Chocolates seem to dominate the proceedings and I am sure no one would mind. Chocolate recipes, chocolate tasting, and so much more, I am sure it is a very sweet experience.

    Reply
  11. Shaily

    I must agree I belong to the same category as you – I love beaches without a doubt, but I do long for doing more than just lazing on the beaches. And being a chocolate lover, what’s more interesting to visit chocolate estates and enjoy the chocolate festival? I didn’t know you can associate Grenada with chocolates – from chocolate making to chocolate tasting – they have enough to satiate my cravings. I would also love to try Grenadian spice cake, guava cheese and sweet potato pudding. Cocoa tea and chocolate Liqueur also sound interesting.

    Reply
  12. Corritta

    Your pictures have me jealous. I am not a chocolate lover but I loooove BBQ. Fish Fridays also sound awesome. I can imagine how fresh everything must taste unlike here in the U.S.

    Reply

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